Ranakpur Mandir
“God is in the details” – Ludwig Miesvan Der Rohe
Majestic. Spectacular. Gargantuan. These are few of the adjectives which exemplify the temple of Ranakpur. Built in the heart of the captivating valley of Aravalis, the temple is an ostentatious piece of art laid isolated in the surrounding forest of the village of Ranakpur near Sadri town in the Pali district of Rajasthan.
A 97 km picturesque drive from the city of Udaipur gives only a glimpse of what is in store for you. Dedicated to the first Jain Thirthankar, Adinathji, this glorious monument, also known as Chaturmukha Dharna Vihara is bliss to each one’s imagination.
History
The temple built in 15th century by the visionary Archarya Somasundatsuri Dharna Shah, the minister to the ruler of Mewar Rana Khumba following a divine vision, includes various temples namely Chaturmukha temple, Surya temple, Suparshvantha temple and Amba temple. The construction of temple started in the year 1433 Vikram Samvat under the patronage of Rana Kumbha himself. The architect of the temple was Depa or Depaa who had made the realization of the dream possible.
Progression of the construction did not go according to the plan; even after 50 years the temple was not completed. This made the ageing Darna Shah concerned; he then installed the idol of the principal deity himself. Finally with the help of 1500 artisans and more than 1000 labours the edifice got completed in 63 years. The other idols were ceremoniously installed by Acharya Somalsundarsurji, a Jain monk, who was Dharma’s guide. About 99 lakh gold coins were spent on the construction.
As a gesture of gratitude, the temple was named after Rana Kumbha who also had donated a vast piece of land for the construction of the temple.
Architecture
Burrowed – Nestled between the Aravallis, this three storied colossal structure is spread over 48,000 sq ft and rises 102 ft. It has 29 halls, 84 temples and 374 statues. The temple is famous for its intricate carvings and unique architecture. It is built in the form of Nalini – Gulma Vimana (a heavenly vehicle as seen by Dharna Shah in his dreams) and the style is based on Maru-Gurjara architecture.
The temple has four artistic entrances, the four doorways which lead to the four chambers, which in turn lead to the Garbhagrah (sanctum sanctorum) where the main idol of Bhagwan Adinathji is kept.
The “Chathurmukh” has four images made in white marble which are 72 inches tall, and are installed facing in four different directions. The second and third sanctums are also enshrined with four identical images.
The top of the entrance has an elegant “Akicha”, a man with five bodies which represents fire, water, heaven, earth and air. The ceiling is ornamented with the leaves of ’Kalpavrisksha’, the wish-fulfilling tree.
The openings from the Garbhagrah leads to the dancing hall, known as Rangamandapa, which again are interconnected to the two storied mandapas called Balana and Nalimandapa. The temple has five shikharas amongst which the central one is the largest.
It has also 9 bhonyra (underground chambers) which were used to protect the Jain idols from the Mugals. You can also find images of 24 tirthankaras are carved on the porticos in a corridor around the shrine with each one having a ‘Shikar’ adorned with little bells on the top.
The pillars
Amongst all the brilliance here, one thing that stands out is the awe-inspiring pillars through the hall. There are about 1444 marble pillars in the temple, but don’t be too sure, as it is believed that you will never be able to the count the same, in exact, each time. Each pillar is intricately carved and yet no two of them are same. And despite their dense network the design allows a clear view of the idol of Lord Adinath. The temple indeed is a treasure house of pillars.
The placement of these pillars is such that it does not hinder the natural lights and shadows in focus. Thus you can breathe fresh air all around the hall; in fact the air is so cool that you can relax your body infinitely.
These 40 ft high pillars are carved with floral design, depiction of animals, damsels along with geometric patterns. Also it is believed that the pillars change their color from golden to blue every hour as the day progresses. You need to experience this yourself in your visit.
The Unfinished Pillar
The legendary unfinished pillar of Ranakpur – As per the legend, Rana Kumbha wanted the pillar to touch the dome signifying his contribution to the temple and as a symbol of his personal glory. A strange thing happened whenever the pillar was erected beyond a particular height, it would collapse. Even Deepa, the chief architect started doubting his technicalities. One day, the Maharana got a dream where Goddess Amba appeared and told him to drop his ego and stop constructing the pillar. Maharana realized his mistake and left the pillar half-constructed as a reminder that how irrelevant a person is in front of Almighty.
The Ancient Sacred Tree
There is a holy tree which is of several centuries old. Under this Rayan tree (Manilkara Hezandra) there is a footprint idol of Lord Adinath. As per the legend the Lord is said to have given his first sermon under this ancient tree.
Carved idol of Parshvanatha
The temple is also famous for its beautiful carved idol of Parshvanatha, the 23th Trithankar made out of a single marble slab. The idol has 1008 snake heads and numerous tails. Two chauri bearers and Yaksha and Yakshi ( half-human and half-snake), stand on either side.
“In spite of the complexity, the vast expanse and the loftiness of the temple, the architectural balance and symmetry are not the least affected”, reads a description of the temple at the temple official site Ranakpurtemple.com.
The Mughal attack
For more than 20 years, the temple was a beacon of devotion before it came under attacks by the Mughals. Around 17th century during the reign of Auranzeb, the Mughals advanced through Mewar and pillaged the temple. Later, famine annihilated the population of the surrounding area. The temple was abandoned and it became a refuge to the dacoits.
It was only during the 20th century that the neighborhood took notice and with the leadership and efforts of Anandji Kalyanji trust this temple which had collapsed in parts, was restored to its original grandeur. It was reopened to the general public in the year 1953.
Other Temples
Beside the main temple, there are other temples in the complex
- Suparshvantha temple – A temple dedicated to the Suparshvantha. It has an intrinsic design and this temple is known for its erotic arts on the wall.
- Sun temple – This dates back to the 13th century CE. It was rebuilt in the 15th century after the attacks by Mugals. The temple is managed by Udaipur royal family trust.
- Sethi Ki Badi Mandir – This is large temple belonging to the Swetambar sect of Jain religion. The temple is famous for exquisite murals on the front wall of the temple.
- Chougan ka Mandir – The temple is famous for an idol of the first tirthankar of the next time cycle. There are two more temples dedicated to Shantinatha and Mahavira in the compound.
The temple of Ranakpur has been an inspiration to many. The Pittalhar temple, Dilwara (1459 AD) and the Palitana temple complex (1681 AD) to name a few.
How to reach
Ranakpur is well connected with rail and air. It is a 2 to 3 hour drive from Udaipur city. You can ride in a car / cab or bus (both private and state bus) which ply daily. The car and private bus can go right up to the gates and the well organized temple management ensures that there are no hassles of parking even when it is overcrowded. The state bus stand is just 100 metres from the temple complex.
The nearest airport is the Dabok airport, Udaipur, which is 90 kms. The nearest railway station is Falna which is 27 kms from the temple. You can also proceed to Jodhpur from here as it is en route (about 200 kms).
A half hour drive will lead you to the mighty Kumbhalgarh fort. If pre-planned you can cover both the places in one day and return back to Udaipur or continue your onward journey to Jodhpur.
Temple timings
The temple opens up for general public / tourists from 12 PM to 5 PM. The morning and evening time is reserved for the Jain community to perform their pujas. Though, you can take a special permission for the evening time to see the splendor in the night time. It takes about an hour to visit the temple in detail. Some time it can be a tedious job to climb the stairs especially for the aged people, but inside the temple there are many places where you can sit and rejuvenate.
There is no entry free but a nominal free of Rs 100 is charged for camera / mobile camera. Though there is a fee for foreign tourists. Also the attire is of great importance to visit the temple.
Apart from this there is a dharamshala for the devotees to stay at night if they wish. The kitchen serves mouth watering food at a very nominal cost. And if lucky, we may meet our ancestors in the Hanuman roop… But a word of caution J , do not mistake their tails hanging from the tree as a rope. They are found in abundance, though will not disturb you unless you do.
Ranakpur temple is indeed an architectural marvel, where GOD is in the design. A must place visit in your itinerary.